Stage Two
Next, cut to suit using 3/4"sq timber, lengths that will lay around the perimeter of the building see Fig. 1. By now you should have reached something like Fig.1 as seen in the pictures below.
Don't worry too much about the little ornamental supports that adorn each upright beam, they are simply 21/4" architrave cut into widths of around 3/8". and glued to each post as shown.
Fig's three and four show the dogleg staircase and a black-lead grate , click on each image and it will give you a little clearer picture.
Don't worry too much about the little ornamental supports that adorn each upright beam, they are simply 21/4" architrave cut into widths of around 3/8". and glued to each post as shown.
Fig's three and four show the dogleg staircase and a black-lead grate , click on each image and it will give you a little clearer picture.
The Stair Plan
Well this may take a little time for you to figure out, but it will be worth it if you aim to do the same sort of staircase as I have. Now, this is 'your' plan but you will have to make it to suite your sizes. The width 'in my case,' of the inner 'carcase' is 3" and the length of the 'carcase' is however wide your room is. I have chosen to start in the lower left room at the rear of the room using the full width of the room.
The length of the plan is based on the height of the room and the distance to the exit door.
I suggest that you draw yourself some sort of plan and lay each piece of wood on top of each other marking out each segment as you go. If you have a better idea of how to do this then, let me know, I don't profess to be the worlds best staircase maker.The wood in the centre section will be 3"long and around ¾" square (represents 9") , the end sections will vary according to your drawing. Use MDF to make your carcase to the height of your room and the width should be 3" interior measurement to match the length of the centre section of the staircase.
Below are some of the tutorials I have already covered on these subjects.
Well this may take a little time for you to figure out, but it will be worth it if you aim to do the same sort of staircase as I have. Now, this is 'your' plan but you will have to make it to suite your sizes. The width 'in my case,' of the inner 'carcase' is 3" and the length of the 'carcase' is however wide your room is. I have chosen to start in the lower left room at the rear of the room using the full width of the room.
The length of the plan is based on the height of the room and the distance to the exit door.
I suggest that you draw yourself some sort of plan and lay each piece of wood on top of each other marking out each segment as you go. If you have a better idea of how to do this then, let me know, I don't profess to be the worlds best staircase maker.The wood in the centre section will be 3"long and around ¾" square (represents 9") , the end sections will vary according to your drawing. Use MDF to make your carcase to the height of your room and the width should be 3" interior measurement to match the length of the centre section of the staircase.
Below are some of the tutorials I have already covered on these subjects.
- Black-lead Grate
- Dogleg Staircase (as above)
- Floorboards
- Flagstone floor
- Installing Lighting
- Making a Table
I chose to build a storage cupboard under the stair and put a door on it. The door is shown as part of the framework that I built to cover the front of the staircase and surround the fireplace setting, as shown in Fig. 5 onwards.
Make the doors the same as you do the floorboards using 5/6mm ply. Frame the door using 3/4" x10mm lengths, drill a hole in the corner of the door top and bottom to receive a panel pin drill a hole in the frame so that it corresponds to the hole in the door, shove the panel pin through the holes in the frame and into the end of the door so that it swings on it, as shown in Fig. 6. Do the same for the entrance to the stairway.
Set a piece of timber to suite approx. 4" down from the underside of the overhang where you require a window, this should be approx. 1.3/4" x 1/2" to form an inside sill and an outside sill. Frame using 1/4" square strip wood to create a window, as shown in Fig. two. Covered also in Stage Four
You should now be considering what sort of lighting you are going to install if any. (How to install lighting)
Make the doors the same as you do the floorboards using 5/6mm ply. Frame the door using 3/4" x10mm lengths, drill a hole in the corner of the door top and bottom to receive a panel pin drill a hole in the frame so that it corresponds to the hole in the door, shove the panel pin through the holes in the frame and into the end of the door so that it swings on it, as shown in Fig. 6. Do the same for the entrance to the stairway.
Set a piece of timber to suite approx. 4" down from the underside of the overhang where you require a window, this should be approx. 1.3/4" x 1/2" to form an inside sill and an outside sill. Frame using 1/4" square strip wood to create a window, as shown in Fig. two. Covered also in Stage Four
You should now be considering what sort of lighting you are going to install if any. (How to install lighting)
